DAY FOURTEEN - TANSEN TO POKHARA

As the clock struck 6am my eyes couldn’t rest any longer, due to a mix of anxiety about our final day in the rickshaw and a headache from the local whiskey we knocked back the last night. So I thought it was best to get up and out the door for a morning jog around Tanzen. – Best idea I’d had in 12hrs.

As I stepped outside the hotels double doors I walked into what was literally a picture postcard, this was without a doubt the best view I’ve come across so far on our travels. The snowcapped mountains and Himalayas’ peaking through the cotton candy clouds and I was stood at eye level with these opposing mountains to see some of mother natures finest products. Obviously I raced straight back inside to grab my camera, oh and the producer and camera crew and Shelley and Gordie!

Much to my dismay my camera battery was flat and I had to put it on charge instantly, thankfully there is always a few cameras lying around with a production and camera crew to capture these type of moments on film. So while I was waiting for everyone to get their act together I got back out there for my morning jog, on what is definitely the world’s best running track! Hello! Women’s health magazine why don’t you know about this already, it makes running in the morning enjoyable! This running track had it all a steady climb up the mountain roads, unbelievable views, crisp air, natural Himalayan water spurting out the springs on the roadside, interesting townships with friendly local people, larger than usual pigs and livestock.

It’s a Gooooooooooooood morning everybody! I think I can say I feel on top of the world today. This is the last time however that we will all have to wake up early to get on the road, the final morning we will have a camera watching us hoe down our breakfast at a swift pace and this morning is the last leg for our journey for the lil’ lady. An exuberant energy flow is in the air to get this show on the road and party in Pokhara! -We were later crushed at the breakfast table when Shivani came out and told us there was no party tonight, it was last night. We had missed the party!! Arrrrrrgggggghhhhhhhh! Noooo!

The party news was a bit of a blow to the spirits around the breakfast table, however the Shaw must go on and we had to still get to Pokhara. So as we sipped our last drops of tea and coffee over mind blowing views from the balcony we headed over to the Shaw for the last time and I jumped in the driver’s seat, of Course! At the gate of the hotel were a group of local kids all excited and awaiting our departure from the driveway of the hotel. These children were so cool BTW! I hung out with them last night when we got in and earlier this morning after my job. They are just so inquisitive about tourists like us and my blonde hair. They had so many questions about the Rickshaw, our journey, how to operate the digital camera I gave them and why my name is Katie. –Which apparently means girl in Nepalese?

As we drove out the drive about 15 of the kids stopped us and jumped on and into the Rickshaw with us, In true Nepal style we drove them down the road where their mother was waiting for them to have a few firm words and smile from ear to ear at us. Hi Mum! Oh Ohhhh! Now the extra weight was off our Rickyshaw could get up the hill and on her way.

The last day made me want to drive the entire way as it was so scenic and fun to roll down the hill, only having to change gears for the most part. Along the way today we had a slight drama yet again with the roof racks, the back rack had actually come apart and fallen right beside Gordie’s head, hahaha. It was utterly amusing. We had to pull over and assess the matter. I was never good at the handywoman work, so I just left it up to Mr. Fixit to repair the roof. Gordon managed to find some spare rope in the back seat to tie the rack back together however it turned out after all his hard yakka that we had actually pulled up right outside a Welder’s repair shed. HAHAHA, Sorry Gord but it was rather funny. As the welder’s worked their magic with their blow torch on our Shaw we hung out with some of the locals and the crew to play a native board game. Not to sure of the games name, but it was just like snooker only on a smaller scale and on a white board with chips instead of balls. Lot’s of fun and I wish I hope I can purchase one before we leave Nepal.

After the roof was fixed it was back on the road again to begin another mountain climb, I continued to drive the stars in the rear but before long Gordon was keen to take over the reins and drive Shelby and I all the way to the finish line….Ahhhhh Yarrr! What Ever! Minger! Like you are soooo not drivin’ across the finishing line without a fight from Shelby and I! ;)

With the wind in our hair we cruised the mountain roads leading to Pokhara and took numerous pee stops along the way, stopped and chatted to locals, tried a bit of the natural spring water that spurted out from the roadside, shared more stories and banter with one another. Then just 20kms out of Pokhara Shelley changed over with Gordon to bring this baby home!

With the tension heating up Gordon and I thought there was no better way to cool off then to pull over and take a shower and go wild under a natural waterfall…. For some reason the our producer thought our idea was SIMPLY REDICULOUS and was so annoyed at us for stuffing up continuity at the finishing line. Whoopsie!

Now there was only 13km’s to go and Gordon and I were frantically trying to dry ourselves in the rear seat, no hair dyer, no towels, just dirty blankets and my head scarf…. When all that started to fail it was time for us to hang our heads out the sides of the rickshaw and make like dogs when they sit in their owner’s car.

Pokhara and the destination is unknown….We have no idea where the finishing line is! Anyone got a map?! No! Half an our driving around Pokhara city can really cause an anti climax to what is suppose to be a exciting and thrilling end to our journey, not to mention the fact that we missed the party by a day. Ahhh….well I guess no one could manage this situation better than a trio of talented bull***t artists, sorry did I say that? – I meant talented creative artists! So we put on our party heart glasses and fluro head bands, jumped into the front seat to share the drive across the finishing line and Whoop! Whoop! Put your hands in the air! We crossed the finishing line and kissed our Lil’ lady goodbye for the last time.

This has truly been one of the best experiences of my life so far and the friendships I’ve formed with Shelby, Gordon and the production gang are priceless! This experience has opened my eyes dramatically and I would highly recommend anyone who wants to travel through India to do it by rickshaw as it is such a good laugh. I’ve most definitely become older and wiser, the experience is proof that the simple things in life are enough but I simply cannot live without soy milk, English breakfast tea , vegemite, Chico lollie’s and Vanish to make my whites white and my colour’s bright. I am sad that we all have to say goodbye now and head back to reality. I don’t think it’s all completely sunk in as yet, but as they say, “All good things come to an end.” ;) Bye! X ktC

DAY THIRTEEN - LUMBHINI TO TANSEN

Waking up in the birthplace of Buddha and in a real hotel resort has its benefits, not only do you feel clean and renewed but you also know that because it’s a tourist hub and the breakfast will be decent with actual toast! – Not this cardboard with red sugar smear we’ve been consuming over the past two weeks.

Ahhhhh…..At last a real shower hosting a collection of miniature shampoo, moisturizer’s and soaps. Normal toilets bowl with a flush that works and a roll. I can say goodbye to giving my thighs an unnecessary workout and having finding a napkin as a substitute for ass paper. I am deeply in love with Nepal and the tourist destination already.

Lumbhini has been such a refreshing change for me, I really feel like I’ve cleansed myself of all the dirt and dust we’ve picked up in the rickshaw these past two weeks….Not that it hasn’t been enjoyable, it has been. Today I woke up after a pleasurable sleep-in and made my way down to breakfast with the gang, where we discussed our plans for the day. As there was….apparently a massive storm last night, (I had no idea?!) … we decided that we should take it easy today and drive to another place in Nepal, Tansen and give ourselves some time to check out the birthplace of Buddha, Lumbhini.

So after brekkie we headed down the road and found ourselves a cycle rickshaw to jump on and take us to the holy temple where Buddha Gautama was born. To be honest I’m not terribly fond of gardens. I couldn’t say I take after my mother and appreciate a really beautiful garden, however the gardens that surrounded the temple where Buddha was born were rather serene and fascinating. In the garden stood huge trees with Tibetan prayer flags draped across them, various ruins from where temples from centuries ago stood and an enormous holy pond where it is said that Maya Devi bathed before giving birth to Lord Buddha. –I thought I ought to probably give myself a bit of a blessing too, when in Lumbhini do as the tourist looking Sheila at Varanasi did and dab a bit of water on my forehead and shoulders.

After piss farting around the gardens we frolicked over to the Mayadevi temple where a group of Buddhist monks were chanting their morning mantra, this was simply sublime. It made your body tingle and your mind relax; just like yoga you became very aware of your whole body. Unreal! When the chanting had deceased we wondered over a steady plank of wood to view a glass encased rock. Not just any old rock, this was the rock that Buddha was born on. Very cool indeed! This was the kind of place that unless you’re Buddhist you never imagine of going to, but I feel very lucky and privileged to have visited.

Time to hit the road again but not before a spot of tourist shopping at the little stalls on the way out! I think we all got sucked into buying something from these shops, necklaces made out of prayer beads, Tibetan prayer flags, musical bowls or Buddha carvings we wanted anything and everything that could give us a touch of good health, wealth and happiness. Not to mention protection and forgiveness for our travels. Ahhhhh holistic Nepal! Might I mention we all got ripped off a beauty, all apart from the super sleek barter queen Shelley. You are too fine my friend! ;)

On we zoomed in our lawn mower sounding Lil’ lady with me driving of course! To experience Nepal’s sheer beauty in the daylight and Nepal certainly didn’t disappoint. The scenery today was out of control! The country side was so green and lush and the houses in the towns were equally as vibrant and colourful. All the roads were so much more delightful and peaceful to drive on, I almost felt rude and impatient to toot the horn at forthcoming traffic and animals. Less road kill than India and the air felt significantly clearer.

As the sun began to set we reached our final destination before Pokhara, Tanzen. This is the real paradise on earth if anyone is looking for it. The Views!!! OMG!!! I Hollywood don’t need no fake backdrops anymore, it’s all here! Sound of Music, Julie Andrews eat ya heart out! ;) I am just o stuck on this place, high up above the rest of the world. It blows your mind with its beauty. Our last night together before we all let our hair down and hand back the Rickshaw at the finish line, Ohhhh why do all good things get faster and faster when nearing the end?! L It’s all about the company and the local delicacies tonight aka- Everest Beer!

DAY TWELVE - MAU TO LUMBHINI

Time really does fly! Today we had our final day in India and today we crossed the boarder into Nepal. Yippie! On the one hand OMG! On the other I cannot believe that we have travelled so far across India and that our incredible journey is soon to come to an end. Today we were all happy to start our travels early and see the back of the Mau and the so-called hotel. –AKA: a marriage hall. An emotional yet exciting day was ahead of us, it was the last of this magnificent country’s smells, spices, colours, people, traffic, cows, road kill and trousers we were to experience but the beginning of our tracks to be made in another country Nepal.

Nepal is the home of the world’s finest landscape, crystal-clear water, smiling faces and has an almighty sense of serenity!

Today was such a long day! Beginning at 7am we powered through India’s last lot of bumpy roads. It was a day where we skipped lunch and cured our hunger pans with packet’s of crisps, lollies, bottles of water, Mirinda and Coca cola. Today I was busy playing the photo journalist for the, “Pants of India” when in the rear seat of the shaw, getting those priceless last trouser pics that truly set India apart in the fashion stakes from the rest of the world. We had a delightful experience when we hit the India/Nepal boarder where we sat waiting for about three hours before we were cleared. The last township of India or the first if you were to enter the country is a extremely unattractive location, the air is filled with truck exhaust, desperation, rubbish filled roadage and traffic!

Once on the Nepal side of the line you could notice a difference in the Nepalese people and their land compared to India. The surrounds we found ourselves in now seemed to have a pride about them. The air felt like mountain air, there was no road kill, no rubbish on the streets and the there was no brownish colour mist in the air.

Now in Nepal we thought we best see one of the Buddhist world’s greatest sites, heritage listed, the place where Buddha himself was born.

Off to Lumbhini it was. Apart from hitting a few frogs on the roads I found Nepal far nicer to drive through than what I had experienced in India. The roads didn’t have nearly as many potholes or cows to dodge. This place seems far more my speed.

The hotel is such a nice change from the dive we stayed in at Mau and it felt well deserved when we arrived there at half nine that night. We had a hot shower and a proper toilet for the first time in over a week, yeay!

Can’t wait to wake up and check out Buddha’s birthplace tomorrow.

DAY ELEVEN - VARANASI TO MAU - 114km

Waking up in the holy city of India Varanasi at 4am with a head cold certainly isn’t my cup of tea, however Varanasi was an interesting site to be seen at dawn.

Our final destination Mau on the other hand was a complete and utter dive and lets just say it wasn’t the anything like Maui of Hawaii. Our travels today were less than usual as all the crew and us rickshawstar’s were stuffed from the past ten days on the road. Splitting our day into two parts worked well for all, with an early wakeup and mid morning siesta before we were to get back on the road.

Today was special to me as it was a place I’ve always wanted to travel to and a destination I’ve always seen in the travel brochures and heard about from those who have travelled to India. Varanasi a holy place with an abundance of noisy atmosphere, pollution, pilgrims and tourists. All with the surreal 5^th Element movie backdrop or something you’d seen in a children’s animation movie. Noice, different and un usual. Everything about this place was special in itself, cows standing lonesome in the middle of a rundown riverside building, the cremations going down as if a baker was cooking his days worth of bread, old men and women preparing themselves for their next life or just exfoliating their body with the rivers muddy rocks.

After a much needed rest we hit the frog and tod to our next destination, Mau. Which is actually far worse than a staying in a dumpster for the night, at least a dumpster would have had alcohol readily available at the end of our working day and probably less bugs and gum on the floor. We were also treated to a rock hard mattress and blood stained sheets to sleep in. Mau. Yuck! Never again. Note to self for next time, Must bypass Mau.

All up a memorable day but we all can’t wait to get out of Mau.

DAY TEN - REWA TO VARANASI - 243km

Rewa was the perfect hotel room spacious, comfy beds, a delightful dinner and breakfast the following morning. Rewa itself was a bustling township of India, with lots of colour and busy stores in the streets. However we didn’t really go out in Rewa, we just stayed at the hotel….the hotel there was a means to an end- to get as close to Varanasi as soon as possible.

On the road again and up early to Varanasi and we faced our first stint of seriously bad weather, in India during monsoon season when it rains it pours and today it certainly bucketed down!

Our little rickshaw was a complete wash out, Gordon, Shelley and myself had so far been winging it and thinking that we had missed out on all the bad weather and that there was absolutely no chance it would rain until Nepal….Whoopsie!

So we got completely soaked, everything in the rickshaw was wet and so were we! The challenge was that we had to then try and keep the remainder of the rickshaw dry. So we taped a shower cap to the roof of the rickshaw as only days before the roof of the convertible was ripped open with the might of an electrical cable hanging in the streets of Bhopal. Meanwhile Shelley, Gordie and myself tucked into a packet of Maltesers to pass the time, after the dose of sideways rain we drove off towards Varanasi- the Holy place.

Arrrrrghhhh Varanasi…. Another busy Indian city but this time it was a holy city, We’ll see in the morning as I am absolutely buggered and haven’t been able to take much in this evening. I have been a bit cranky and tired all day and also feel a cold coming on. Yuck! Laters.

DAY NINE - KHAJARAHO TO REWA

Another day, another million people and another temple to check out, this time the temples of the well known ancient Karma Sutra. It was also Gordon’s birthday today and Shelly and I were able to go shopping finally as well. The rickshaws shassy was completely removed and reshaped, I followed the wrong car around Khajaraho and managed to slightly swipe the side of the rickshaw when driving up to a petrol tank, whoopsie! What else happened today??? Oh Katie started her photo diary today of the, “pants of India” - which is simply a few hundred or so snaps of the fashionista trousers sported by males here in India.

The Buddhist temples of Karma Sutra in Khajaraho were awesome! The graphic statues in the temples and the on the sides of the exterior walls were such a good laugh and also very arousing! The architecture of the temples was simply stunning also, as you looked up to the sky the roof of the temples looked like gigantic jengar blocks or a sandstone lego block castles. These kind of old and graceful places tend to take you back to your childhood I think.

Meanwhile due to the lopsided appearance of our rickshaw yesterday and the tough terrain the rickshaw had to endure yesterday we sent her off to the mechanics to get looked at. Sure enough the Shassy had a big huge stress crack in it. So it was removed and replaced, kind of weird that the entire capsule of our rickshaw can be removed and then put back together in approx 3 hrs. Thankfully it drove much better today! Until I side swiped it at the service station that is, again…..whoopsie!

On the road again and all went well, painted birthday party faces on for Gordon and all. We arrived safely into Rewa.

DAY EIGHT - SAGAR TO KHAJARAHO

Such a good day, stress free, the rickshaw was blissfully taking to the roads of India with no little dramas and we arrived to Khajaraho, the land of Karma Sutra before sunset. Woo Hoo! So of course we all found a way to celebrate by watching the sunset go down over the temples with a few Kingfisher beers.

I was so happy with our run today, we basically drove for most of the day and then about an hour before we were to reach Khajaraho we came across this unbelievable fort perched on a hill above a small village. Well actually it was our cameraman Steve Moro that stopped and found the magic of our India travels for the day.

Just as I was kicking back in the rear of the rickshaw we decided to drive back and check out this old fort perched on the hill, as we attempted to search for some parking near by we came across a very beautiful and extremely welcoming local village. The locals of this township could not be any more intrigued and friendly towards us. The local children and their fathers joined us on our mini trek up the step hill into the forte. The forte was utterly beautiful and old, with stunning views across some Indian landscape. We had photos and chatted with the locals and met the local Indian Hugh Heffner of the township. 80yrs + and getting a photo with the ladies!!!

Back on the rickshaw and we were off towards the land of Sutraaaaaa, Whoop Whoop! The sunset itself set the vibe upon arrival and I was so glad we reached the joint before 9pm. After seven nights of eating curry and Indian flare I was soooooo hanging for my usual steak and salad or sushi, but instead opted out for some Italian cuisine. Tuna spaghetti, yum!

With a full belly it was time to hit the hay and gear myself up for the day to come at the Buddhist Karma Sutra temples and a session of early morning roof top yoga.